December 18, 2020 Furnishings

Household Items for Cleaning Seats, Couch & Loveseats

Furniture gets dirty whether it’s sat upon every day or barely whatsoever. Food, animal fur and dust ensure upholstery material look less than its best, unless the furniture is cleaned frequently. The equipment necessary to keep that furniture in top shape are items you likely already have about the house. Consult the care label on each piece of upholstered furniture for general upkeep info.

Vacuum for General Cleaning

Regardless of which type of fabric is on your sofa and chairs, a vacuum cleaner removes dirt, dust, and debris that accumulate in the fibers and also in between and under cushions. Remove all the pillows and cushions to get into all of the crevices and cracks. A crevice attachment reaches between the cushions that can’t be eliminated, while a brush or upholstery attachment provides a gentle touch over material while vacuuming. Use the vacuum cleaner or a stationary pad dust-grabbing mop beneath the furniture.

Snack Stain Removal

Snacks eaten in the family or living room wind up as stains on the furniture once in a while, however careful the children or adults are using their food. It is possible to remove a few of the good chocolate residue by scraping the material with a rubber knife, which lifts it out of this cloth. Dish soap on a damp sponge or soft cloth wipes away remaining chocolate stains. A zippered sandwich bag full of ice hardens gum to make it easier to eliminate; the plastic knife comes to the rescue once again to pry and pick away in that hardened gum.

Dissolving Ink

Rubbing alcohol along with a white cloth team up to eliminate ink from upholstery material. Pour a bit of alcohol on the cloth, then blot the place always, checking the cloth to see if the ink has moved to the cloth. If you see ink on the cloth, start with a fresh corner of this cloth dipped in the alcohol to prevent spreading the needle. Blot the ink instead of rubbing it, as rubbing can make the issue worse.

Fur Fighters

If a cat or dog has free reign within the living room, fabric-covered furniture is bound to show it. Put on a rubber glove and rub it over the cloth to ball up fur, which makes it easier to pick up and discard. A lint roller also picks up fur in a pinch, as does a bit of packing tape wrapped around your fingers, sticky-side out.

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December 16, 2020 Home Cleaning

How to Clean Metal Cabinet Hardware

Whether you’ve alloy cabinet hardware made from antique brass, modern stainless steel or even something in between, it requires regular cleaning. The bacteria and dirt from your hands as well as the grease from cooking can leave your metal cabinet hardware looking and feeling grubby. If the hardware appears very dirty or tarnished, you might need to remove it for it thoroughly clean. Keep your cupboards and its hardware looking brand new by adding it to a regular weekly or monthly cleaning routine.

Soap and Water

Fill a bowl or sink with warm water and add a squirt of dishwashing liquid or olive-based soap. Swish the water around with your hand to make suds.

Dip a rag into the soapy water and wring it out.

Wipe the cabinet hardware using the soapy rag. For tough dirt, dip a soft toothbrush into the water and bathe.

Wash the rag, wring it out and then wipe the cabinet hardware to remove the soap residue.

Buff the hardware using a dry chamois cloth to polish and shine it.

Vinegar Cleaning Solution

Pour 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar and 1/2 cup water in a spray bottle and shake the jar to blend.

Spray a rag with the vinegar solution until it’s moist but not dripping.

Wipe the hardware using the vinegar-soaked cloth. Wash the cloth if required and wet it again with the vinegar mix.

Buff the hardware using a dry chamois fabric to get a nice polish and sheen.

Joining and Removing

Unscrew the cabinet hardware from the Interior with a screwdriver.

Fill a sink or bucket with hot water and then add sufficient dishwashing liquid to make suds. If desired, add 1/2 cup white vinegar.

Submerge the hardware in the soapy water for several hours or overnight.

Remove the hardware in the water one piece at a time and bathe it with a toothbrush. If the hardware is tarnished, spray on the toothbrush using white vinegar and then sprinkle the bristles with table salt prior to scrubbing.

Wash the hardware and then buff it with a chamois cloth to restore shine.

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December 11, 2020 Furnishings

Alternative Stones to Carrara Marble

Carrara marble flooring and counters epitomize luxury and timeless upscale decor. The stone, quarried in the Italian Pyrenees for decades, comes in a myriad of coloured veins with characteristics that vary from noticeably flawed — most fascinating — to smooth and lightly veined. But marble stains, scratches, nicks and loses its luster when not thoroughly preserved. Other types of stone for the kitchen, bathroom or flooring may save you money and labor.

Granite

Granite, an igneous rock with hard crystalline flecks inside, is a durable stone. It’s perfect for heavy-use surfaces such as kitchen counters. You can’t scratch it with a knife, though it’s so tough it’ll dull knife blades. An extremely close-grained stone, it does not absorb stains readily. You can decide on a hot grass form the stove on it because it wo not react to heat. Granite does not crack, but it may be chipped — with a great deal of effort. It takes much less attempt to fix a chip with a mixture of epoxy glue and granite dust. Granite comes in many different colors — reds, grays, blues, browns, creams and black. It’s an investment in your kitchen that will outlast the home.

Soapstone

Soapstone is impervious to heat the same as granite. It’s a much softer stone, though, and requires different handling. Soapstone, also referred to as steatite to distinguish it from a very soft soapstone used for talc goods, is extremely dense and non-porous, more than granite or marble. It does not stain because it is impenetrable and consumes no liquid. But recently installed soapstone counters could be oiled several times to bring the stone to its naturally dark eventual shade quickly. Each oiling deepens the color from gray to charcoal. After a couple of applications of oil, the deeper shade will hold and may be touched up if it begins to lighten. In about six months, then the stone will eternally reach its charcoal hue. Since soapstone is delicate, scratches can be disguised by rubbing them with oil. A deep scratch might be gently sanded and then oiled.

Slate

Slate flooring is just a non-skid, non-porous natural stone that comes in variegated hues of blues and grays that may contain hints of lilacs, browns and greens. It has a primarily bluish cast but doesn’t come in dark, a versatile option for many decors, and could be set up with a slightly irregular natural finish or polished down to a smooth surface. It is not essential to seal slate, but doing this will cut back on maintenance and make the stone easier to mop. Slate lasts for 100 years or more; only be sure to receive one of those tough slates for flooring tiles to ensure a century of use won’t show up as worn-away traffic patterns in and out of the kitchen.

Limestone

Limestone is a sedimentary rock that comprises the observable skeletons of tiny sea creatures, shells and other pieces of sediment that sank to the seafloor millions of years back and solidified into tough calcium carbonate. It may be almost white, beige, gold, rose, or dark green or dark. Most limestone used in house interiors is pale. Limestone tends to be tough due to its composition, but it is a very intriguing stone when displayed on floors or counters. Maintenance is the problem. It’s extremely porous, and even penetrating sealer won’t completely protect it; spilled lemon juice or vinegar will stain it. The finish wears away, and acidic liquids fast mark the rocks and eat through the sealer. Unsealed limestone darkens with dirt, stains and use. It’s best used for ornamental touches where it won’t be subject to this punishing traffic of a kitchen, bathroom or hallway.

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December 7, 2020 Home Painting

Can Vaseline Be employed on a Refrigerator Gasket?

The gasket, or seal, in your fridge door is responsible for maintaining cold air in and warm air out of the cooling compartment. In case it gets dried out, whether due to age or disuse, it wo not seal correctly, leading to premature and condensation food spoilage.

Seal It Up

Vaseline, or petroleum jelly, can soften a dried gasket so it will form a fantastic seal around the door of your fridge. The Vaseline will not repair damage such as cracks or tears, but if the damage is small, it might create a temporary seal until the gasket can be replaced. To use Vaseline or petroleum jelly, gently wash the gasket with warm water and dish soap. Rinse and dry it, and then spread a thin layer of Vaseline above all visible parts of the gasket. Manage the gasket gently while cleaning and also apply the Vaseline so you don’t accidentally cause any harm; a dried-out gasket can tear easily.

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December 5, 2020 Home Painting

The way to Keep a Dishwasher By Building Up Mold

Moisture, pieces of food and a warm surroundings may result in unwanted mold growth. The fridge gives an optimum environment for mold and mildew if it isn’t cleaned regularly. Mold isn’t only ugly and unhealthy; in addition, it can stain the inside of the appliance. Prevention combined with frequent cleaning keeps the mold out of the fridge, and suitable mold removal cleans a moldy dishwasher so that it’s like new.

Food Particles

Mold and mildew need nutrients to grow, and they find them from the food particles left behind in your fridge. Food particles gather in the plastic filter at the base of most dishwashers, on the interior sides and door panel or at the silverware baskets and dish racks. Removing the filter and cleaning it prevents food accumulation. Removal directions vary depending on the machine, but generally the filter is situated in the base of the fridge and lifts out. Running the fridge empty at least one time per week will eliminate the majority of the particles from the interior of the machine, but assess silverware baskets after each use to be certain food has not collected inside.

Door Gaskets

Moisture becomes trapped at the door gasket, but it is not washed out during a normal wash cycle. Food particles, dirt and other debris eventually become damp, then mold grows on it. The regions of the gasket most likely to mold are not readily visible if you don’t pull the gasket to look. Clean the gasket out once weekly after you have run the fridge. If mold is an ongoing issue, you might need to dry the gasket after every use. Slide across the gasket and door seal with a dry cloth. It is possible to use a general-purpose cleaner if dirt accumulates in the gasket.

Moisture

Mold merely grows in moist surroundings. Open the dishwasher door after every use and let it dry out thoroughly before closing it to prevent mold growth. Employing the heat-dry function after every use also overlooks the interior and also prevents mold growth. Should you won’t be using the dishwasher for a little while, like when leaving for vacation, leave the door open as you’re gone to ensure no trapped moisture leads to a mold or mildew issue.

Mold Removal

Chlorine bleach kills mold and helps eliminate most mildew stains. Dilute 1 cup of bleach in a gallon of water and bathe the interior of the machine with a stiff brush. Use a toothbrush to get in narrow places, like around door gaskets. Wear gloves to protect your hands when you use bleach, and also avoid mixing bleach with any other cleaning product. Run the dishwasher empty after cleaning it to rinse the bleach out residue. If stains remain after mold removal, then scrub them off gently with a damp rag and mild scouring powder.

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November 30, 2020 Tropical Style

When to Fertilize & Plant Grass With Dogs

Planting and maintaining your yard can quickly develop into a lost cause when you have dogs which often play and remove in the areas you’ve planted. New grass demands a window of time free of damaging aspects like playful pups running around on it. Fertilizer, on the other hand, can be a danger to your furry family members.

Seed Vs. Sod

The one major advantage of seeding your new yard above buying sod is cost. Another advantage is the various hybrid mixtures available in seed. But when you have puppies, seeding can pose problems, as you want to keep your pooches off of the young tender grass for a period of time. Sod, on the other hand, is slightly more hardy against foot traffic, although you and your dogs should steer clear of the new sod for the first 4 to 6 weeks. Planting from seed should always be done in the spring or fall, waiting until the danger of frost has passed in the spring as well as you allow plenty of time for the roots to develop until cold temperatures hit in the fall. Generally speaking, warm-season species should be planted in spring and cool-season grasses should be planted in fall. Plant sod anytime throughout the calendar year, except during very cold temperatures or extreme heat.

Protecting New Grass

Once you’ve sown the seeds for planting, cover them with 1 inch of a medium layer of straw to help maintain the required moisture and provide a little protection to the seed from the dog’s paws. While the grass is sprouting, take your dog out on a leash or give him a tie-out which will keep him off from the germinating grass or new sod. You can also put up a temporary fence made from poultry wire and stakes, much like you would do to keep animals from a vegetable garden.

Fertilizing

Generally speaking, lawns are fertilized while the grass is growing. To get cool-season grasses, this is during the spring and fall. Warm-season grasses tend to develop during the summertime. You can generally use a pesticide specifically intended for new lawns, but a soil test will tell you exactly how much and what types of fertilizer to use. The fertilizing time does not change because of your dog, however you will have to keep your dog safe from the potentially hazardous side effects of the fertilizer.

Security Factors

Some fertilizers are completely safe for the dog, even when he eats it. Others, however, can cause mild to serious side effects and deaths have happened from fertilizer exposure. The fertilizer you choose will most likely mention the level of security to pets around the label. The package should also record how long to keep your dog away from the fertilized area. Even though you do not see your dog eating the fertilizer off the ground, it may get stuck on his paws or coat and ingested during cleaning.

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November 27, 2020 Tropical Style

List of Aquatic Plants

Aquatic plants include more than just aesthetic value to bodies of water; they all play a vital role in creating a balanced ecosystem. Aquatic plants help keep the water cool and function as a food source for wildlife. Aquatic plants may typically be split into classes based on their specific feature: submersible, emergent and floating.

Submersible Plants

The plants which grow entirely under the water are known as submersible plants. Their leaves generally float through the water but might develop long leaf that goes to the surface. A few examples of submersible crops are Canadian waterweed (Elodea canadensis) and hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) both growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10. Canadian waterweed creates dropping lanced shaped foliage that acts as a cover for insect larvae, fish and other aquatic wildlife. Hornwort has feather-like leaf and also is often used as a aquarium plant for its oxygenating properties.

Emergent Plants

Emergent plants are rooted in the bottom of bodies of water but grow well over the water. Many of these aquatic plants grow in several inches of standing water with soggy soil such as the conditions located at the edge of ponds, lakes and streams. These aquatic plants help prevent erosion and stabilize banks while providing food and cover for aquatic wildlife, beneficial insects and amphibians. Cattails (Typha spp.) , rushes (Juncus spp.) and sedges (Carex spp.) Are a couple of plants that are emergent. Depending on the species, these grass-like aquatic plants grow in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 10.

Floating Acids

Floating aquatic plants have foliage that floats on the surface of the water. All these vital plants supply food, shelter and cover to amphibians, turtles and aquatic life. Among the most popular aquatic plants is waterlilles (Nymphaea spp.) , which grow in USDA zones 3 through 11. They create large lily pad foliage that floats on the water surface and magnificent flowers. Floating hearts (Nymphoides spp.) — located in USDA zones 5 through 11 — appear like a smaller version of the waterlily and create blooms which are not as impressive. Water shield (Brasenia schreberi) creates broad foliage which has a shield-like shape and delicate purple blooms sitting just above the water surface. This floating aquatic plant grows in USDA zones 6 through 9.

Undesirable Plants

Not all aquatic plants have been desired; a few species are thought to be unwanted due to their aggressive nature. Among the most popular undesirable aquatic plants is algae, which grows rapidly and produces the water appear dirty. Algae are really not a plant but also a plant-like organism which covers the surface of the water. Algae can grow in such abundance that it kills desirable aquatic plants and also threatens the life of aquatic wildlife such as fish. Duckweed (Lemna minor) has both positive and negative facets. This small free-floating aquatic plant acts as a food source for ducks but multiplies quickly and can protect the entire surface of slopes. It grows in USDA zones 4 through 10 and can be found in ponds, mud puddles and slow-moving streams.

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November 24, 2020 Gardening and Landscaping

The way to Give Privacy to Metal Fences

Metal fences can vary from the cheap chain-link into the pricey, complex work of wrought iron. No matter what kind you have, metal fences ordinarily do not supply as much privacy as wood or vinyl fences. Entering into a more private fence would probably be a pricey and labor-intensive endeavor. Therefore, if you opt to keep your current metal fence, use different steps to provide the privacy you desire.

Install a fencing material or pliers. Fencing fabrics, sometimes called displays, are offered in many different colors and visibility. They’re generally manufactured from polypropylene or vinyl. Buy rolls of fabric depending on the dimensions of your fence. They’re rolled out, stretched and secured into the fence with cable ties. Slats, on the other hand, are embedded separately from top to bottom of a chain-link fence. Slats can be vinyl, aluminum or a mesh material and are usually self-locking for easy installment.

Grow shrubs and plants in front of a metal fence. Evergreen shrubs, like privet, oleander, rockrose, junipers and euonymus, supply the maximum privacy year round and work well in a Mediterranean climate. In this climate, you can also develop large perennials, like cannas and elephant ears, which unlike annuals are long-lived.

Plant a vine in front of your own fence, spacing several plants in the minimal recommended distance. Clematis, jasmine, kiwi and honeysuckle are perennial vines that, depending on the vine, are hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. For seasonal coverage, develop vegetables, like summer squash or legumes, along with your fence.

Display potted plants in front of a fence. Use containers of varying heights, like a wine barrel and a watering can, with the tallest containers closest to the fence. You can also use a tiered shelving unit that makes it possible to obtain the vertical height necessary for privacy. Metal garden stakes with hooks can be used to hang trailing plants. Some plant pots are designed to hang directly on a fence, and if you grow a trailing plant, like trailing petunias, you can gain some privacy, especially with good care.

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November 20, 2020 Tropical Style

How to Propagate Lemon Verbena

Lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla), some small species of perennial shrub, is grown for its slender, aromatic foliage and dainty flower clusters, that include ornamental appeal in the summer. It rises in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10, where it will reach a rise of 1 to 3 feet using an 18-inch spread. Lemon verbena propagates best from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in midsummer, which will root in a couple of weeks — with or without rooting hormone — if kept under warm, humid conditions.

Fill a 4-inch plastic or terra cotta pot using a mixture of equal parts perlite, coarse sand and coir. Saturate the mixture with water and let it drain.

Collect a 4- to 6-inch-long semi-hardwood cutting out of a mature, healthy lemon verbena plant. Pick one with lots of leaf, no busy flowers along with a stem diameter of about 1/4 inch.

Sever the cutting edge 1/16 inch under a set of leaves with sharp pruning shears or a utility blade. Strip off all the leaves out of along the lower one-half of the cutting edge to expose the nodes.

Dust the severed end and exposed nodes using rooting hormone powder to accelerate root manufacturing, if wanted. Apply the powder using a clean cotton swab. Gently tap or visualize the stem to knock off excess powder.

Poke a hole in the center of this perlite mixture. Be sure the hole deep enough to hold the defoliated portion of this lemon verbena stem. Insert the stem and then push the perlite mix snugly against it. Drizzle water around the stem to settle on the mix.

Place the potted lemon verbena cutting within a 1-gallon clear plastic bag. Secure the bag around the underside of the pot using a rubber band. Make a 1-inch cut in the cover of the bag to allow any trapped moisture to escape.

Set the pot on a lightly shaded garden seat outside or indoors on an east-facing windowsill. Warm the pot to 70 degrees Fahrenheit using a propagation mat if daytime temperatures remain below 65 F. Shield the cutting from direct sunlight to keep it from wilting.

Remove the plastic bag every other day and test the moisture level in the perlite mix. Add water when it feels mostly dry under the surface. Mist the lemon verbena cutting with water to keep the leaves hydrated.

Check for roots in three to four weeks by gently pulling the base of the stem. Feel whether the cutting has anchored to the perlite mixture by roots. Remove the plastic bag one week after rooting.

Transplant the lemon verbena into a 4-inch container full of potting soil fourteen days after it roots. Grow it under gently shaded conditions. Acclimate it to direct sunlight within several days in early fall, then transplant it into a permanent bed.

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November 17, 2020 Fireplaces

Household Products That Will Kill Crab Grasses and Weeds

Go no farther than your cupboard for herbicides that kill perennial weeds and annual weeds such as crab grass (Digitaria spp.) . Common household products could be combined to make short work of pesky weeds, or used alone. They may also be added to water and sprayed on the weeds, and hot water alone sometimes functions.

A Potent Mixture

Combine 4 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar, 4 tablespoons of baby shampoo and 4 tbsp of gin at a sealable 1-gallon container. Fill the container with warm water. If you don’t have gin, use 4 tablespoons of table salt instead. Seal the container and shake well. Pour the solution into a spray bottle or hand-pump pressure sprayer. Spray the weeds until they’re covered as well as the liquid begins to drip. The vinegar dissolves the outer leaf layer so that the leaves can’t retain moisture; the gin or salt dries out the plant faster, and the infant shampoo causes the solution to remain on the leaves.

Alcohol and Water

Isopropyl rubbing alcohol mixed with water will kill weeds. Start out with 4 tablespoons of rubbing alcohol each gallon of water. Pour the solution into a spray bottle, and spray the weeds using a thin spray until they’re moist but not dripping. Spray when there is no wind. Don’t enable the spray for on other plants across the weeds — it’ll kill them also. Protect neighboring plants using plastic or cardboard while spraying. If the weeds do not perish every day or two, try 5 or 6 tablespoons of rubbing alcohol each gallon of water.

Vinegar Alone

Straight vinegar will kill annual weeds such as crab grass. It dissolves the leaf layer that holds in moisture, and the weed dies from lack of moisture. It doesn’t work well on perennial weeds, however. There might be damage to the leaves and stems of perennial weeds, but they will simply grow new stems from beneath the soil. Pour any kind of vinegar into a spray bottle and spray the leaves until it begins to drip away.

Hot Water

Boiling water and hot steam kill weeds. According to the University of California, “The result is very similar to that of a nonselective, postemergent herbicide.” It is most effective on broadleaf weeds and young annual and perennial weeds. There are in fact hot steam and water machines used by professionals for this use. The water must be at least 200 degrees Fahrenheit to kill the plants. Pour the hot water over the weed until it is dripping wet. Use oven mitts; wear protective clothing and exercise extreme caution when employing this method.

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