The Way to Redo White Factory End Cabinets

Whitewash is a stain that’s similar to paint. It is wiped on just like stain, but leaves a large amount of solids on the surface of the wood. It is then sprayed with lacquer to seal and complete the cabinet. To refinish whitewashed cabinets, the lacquer has to be eliminated first. Then they may be sanded down to bare wood. The cabinets can then be refinished any color you would like. You ought to use a chemical stripper to expedite lacquer removal.

Remove all doors and drawers from the cabinets and place them on sawhorses. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the hinges from the doorways. Spread a drop cloth under all of cabinets, doors and drawers.

Place rubber gloves. Open a can of stripper. Use a paint brush to coat the surface of one cabinet, drawer and door at a time. Wait 15 minutes to the lacquer to soften. Use a putty knife to scrape off soft lacquer. Let it drop off on the drop cloth. Do each of the cabinets, doors and drawers where there’s whitewash stain.

Sand the surface of the cabinets, doors and drawers with 100-grit sandpaper attached to your hand block or oscillating sander until smooth.

Open a fresh can of stain. Use a sponge to apply the new stain to the cabinets, doors and drawers one at a time and wipe off immediately with a soft cloth. Wait 30 minutes for the stain to dry.

Spray the cabinets, doors and drawers with one light coat of aerosol lacquer. Wait 30 minutes to the lacquer to dry. Sand the cabinets, doors and drawers by hand with a folded piece of 180-grit sandpaper. Don’t wipe off the whitish lacquer dust.

Spray another coating of lacquer on the doors, drawers and cabinets. Allow the lacquer dry overnight before installing the doors and drawers.

See related

How to Clean Rust From Old Furniture

Rust can easily diminish the overall look of your furniture. Most metal furniture is vulnerable to rust, since rust molds when metal comes in contact with moisture and combines with oxygen. This oxidation process is very likely to occur when metal furniture is subjected to changing temperatures, rain and sunlight.

Brush It

Removing the top layers of rust is a crucial first step, and wire brushes are great tools for your job. Available in a variety of shapes and sizes, wire brushes could be connected to power gear or managed manually. If you’re using electricity, use a lighter touch to make sure you’re not scarring any intact metal beneath. Otherwise, you are going to find that some persistence and a little elbow grease will go a long way in removing the rust and old paint in the furniture. Steel wool, which is easily bendable, can be used to remove the rust in tight locations or tiny crevices. Even if the rust on the furniture is thicker than the surface, it’s still wise to remove as much of this outer coating of rust as possible before proceeding with different procedures.

Dissolve It

Another way of removing rust from furniture is by way of a chemical reaction with formulas which contain malic acid. Sold in many stores as Naval Jelly, rust remover or rust dissolver, the products can be found in thick gel type, which makes using the chemical to vertical and sloping surfaces simpler. Following the manufacturer’s directions, the gels must be used and left to sit down on the rusted areas. The formula works by converting the rust to black ferric phosphate, which loosens the rust and can be wiped away. You then clean off any remaining residue with a damp rag. Because this is a chemical reaction, it’s important to follow any and all safety precautions, including wearing masks, eye protection and gloves.

Acids and Pastes

Items commonly found in the house have been known to work as rust removers. As an example, the acetic acid in white vinegar is acidic enough to dissolve rust. The vinegar can be wiped on to the furniture or poured directly within rusty spots. Based on the amount of rust on the piece, you need to check on the furniture every hour or so to ascertain when to wash the vinegar off. You can also combine baking soda and warm water to create a thick paste for rust removal. Apply the paste and let it sit on the rusted areas before scrubbing it off with a wire brush.

Prevent Flash Rust

After removing the rust out of furniture it’s necessary that the thing be properly dried to avoid flash rust. Flash rust takes place when water — even a thin coating — is present on the surface of metal, steel or iron for a brief time period. Corrosion takes place fast and leaves a blot, which negates all of your hard work. Using clean cloths or even a hair dryer can help to remove all moisture before priming, painting or using the furniture .

See related

Household Items for Cleaning Seats, Couch & Loveseats

Furniture gets dirty whether it’s sat upon every day or barely whatsoever. Food, animal fur and dust ensure upholstery material look less than its best, unless the furniture is cleaned frequently. The equipment necessary to keep that furniture in top shape are items you likely already have about the house. Consult the care label on each piece of upholstered furniture for general upkeep info.

Vacuum for General Cleaning

Regardless of which type of fabric is on your sofa and chairs, a vacuum cleaner removes dirt, dust, and debris that accumulate in the fibers and also in between and under cushions. Remove all the pillows and cushions to get into all of the crevices and cracks. A crevice attachment reaches between the cushions that can’t be eliminated, while a brush or upholstery attachment provides a gentle touch over material while vacuuming. Use the vacuum cleaner or a stationary pad dust-grabbing mop beneath the furniture.

Snack Stain Removal

Snacks eaten in the family or living room wind up as stains on the furniture once in a while, however careful the children or adults are using their food. It is possible to remove a few of the good chocolate residue by scraping the material with a rubber knife, which lifts it out of this cloth. Dish soap on a damp sponge or soft cloth wipes away remaining chocolate stains. A zippered sandwich bag full of ice hardens gum to make it easier to eliminate; the plastic knife comes to the rescue once again to pry and pick away in that hardened gum.

Dissolving Ink

Rubbing alcohol along with a white cloth team up to eliminate ink from upholstery material. Pour a bit of alcohol on the cloth, then blot the place always, checking the cloth to see if the ink has moved to the cloth. If you see ink on the cloth, start with a fresh corner of this cloth dipped in the alcohol to prevent spreading the needle. Blot the ink instead of rubbing it, as rubbing can make the issue worse.

Fur Fighters

If a cat or dog has free reign within the living room, fabric-covered furniture is bound to show it. Put on a rubber glove and rub it over the cloth to ball up fur, which makes it easier to pick up and discard. A lint roller also picks up fur in a pinch, as does a bit of packing tape wrapped around your fingers, sticky-side out.

See related

Alternative Stones to Carrara Marble

Carrara marble flooring and counters epitomize luxury and timeless upscale decor. The stone, quarried in the Italian Pyrenees for decades, comes in a myriad of coloured veins with characteristics that vary from noticeably flawed — most fascinating — to smooth and lightly veined. But marble stains, scratches, nicks and loses its luster when not thoroughly preserved. Other types of stone for the kitchen, bathroom or flooring may save you money and labor.


Granite, an igneous rock with hard crystalline flecks inside, is a durable stone. It’s perfect for heavy-use surfaces such as kitchen counters. You can’t scratch it with a knife, though it’s so tough it’ll dull knife blades. An extremely close-grained stone, it does not absorb stains readily. You can decide on a hot grass form the stove on it because it wo not react to heat. Granite does not crack, but it may be chipped — with a great deal of effort. It takes much less attempt to fix a chip with a mixture of epoxy glue and granite dust. Granite comes in many different colors — reds, grays, blues, browns, creams and black. It’s an investment in your kitchen that will outlast the home.


Soapstone is impervious to heat the same as granite. It’s a much softer stone, though, and requires different handling. Soapstone, also referred to as steatite to distinguish it from a very soft soapstone used for talc goods, is extremely dense and non-porous, more than granite or marble. It does not stain because it is impenetrable and consumes no liquid. But recently installed soapstone counters could be oiled several times to bring the stone to its naturally dark eventual shade quickly. Each oiling deepens the color from gray to charcoal. After a couple of applications of oil, the deeper shade will hold and may be touched up if it begins to lighten. In about six months, then the stone will eternally reach its charcoal hue. Since soapstone is delicate, scratches can be disguised by rubbing them with oil. A deep scratch might be gently sanded and then oiled.


Slate flooring is just a non-skid, non-porous natural stone that comes in variegated hues of blues and grays that may contain hints of lilacs, browns and greens. It has a primarily bluish cast but doesn’t come in dark, a versatile option for many decors, and could be set up with a slightly irregular natural finish or polished down to a smooth surface. It is not essential to seal slate, but doing this will cut back on maintenance and make the stone easier to mop. Slate lasts for 100 years or more; only be sure to receive one of those tough slates for flooring tiles to ensure a century of use won’t show up as worn-away traffic patterns in and out of the kitchen.


Limestone is a sedimentary rock that comprises the observable skeletons of tiny sea creatures, shells and other pieces of sediment that sank to the seafloor millions of years back and solidified into tough calcium carbonate. It may be almost white, beige, gold, rose, or dark green or dark. Most limestone used in house interiors is pale. Limestone tends to be tough due to its composition, but it is a very intriguing stone when displayed on floors or counters. Maintenance is the problem. It’s extremely porous, and even penetrating sealer won’t completely protect it; spilled lemon juice or vinegar will stain it. The finish wears away, and acidic liquids fast mark the rocks and eat through the sealer. Unsealed limestone darkens with dirt, stains and use. It’s best used for ornamental touches where it won’t be subject to this punishing traffic of a kitchen, bathroom or hallway.

See related