Description of This John Deere 240 Tractor Mower

The John Deere 240 is a lawn and garden tractor that Deere manufactured between 1987 and 1992. It was a late entry in the company’s 200 series of little figurines, and it was the smallest of their late-80s 200 series machines. A bit underpowered and obese by current criteria, the 240 was nonetheless capable of performing a complete range of gardening, landscaping and operational tasks.

Engine and Transmission

The 240 tractor is equipped with an air-cooled, single-cylinder, 422-cc Kawasaki FC420V engine which generates 14 horsepower. The engine is mated to a Tuff Torq transmission with six forward gears and one reverse gear. The 240 also features electric start and also a sizable 3-gallon gas tank. In comparison to 2014 Deere tractor models, the 240 is a little garden tractor; the D105 lawn tractor is the smallest riding mower at Deere’s current product line, and it is equipped with a 17.5-horsepower, 500-cc engine and an automatic transmission. Despite its comparatively small motor, the 240 is heavy, weighing in at 590 pounds in comparison with the D105’s 415-pound foundation weight.

Mower Decks

The 240 may be outfitted with either a 38-inch or 46-inch mid-mounted mower deck. The 38-inch deck features two blades, a guide lift mechanism and adjustable cutting height between 1.5 and 4 inches. The 46-inch deck includes three blades, manual lift along with the exact same cutting height adjustments as the 38-inch deck. In contrast, the D105 is equipped with a 42-inch mower deck.


The 240 has a wheelbase of 47.9 inches, and it rides on 16-inch front wheels and 23-inch rear tires. The general diameter of the tractor when equipped with all the 38-inch deck is 53.5 inches, and when the 46-inch deck is onboard the tractor’s diameter is 57 inches. In comparison with current models, the 240 is chunky; the D105’s wheelbase is 1 inch longer, but its width is only 53.9 inches, and its tires are markedly smaller than those of their 240.

Other Attachments

Despite its modest size and power, the 240 has been meant to be a competent all-around tractor to get the homeowner. It might be equipped with a 42-inch, single-stage, manual-lift snow blower, in addition to a 46-inch manual-lift snow plow blade along with a 33-inch tiller. A 30-inch mechanical-drive tiller at John Deere’s current product line is also compatible with all the 240 tractor.

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About the Stihl FS 130 R Trimmer

STIHL, a business which’s become a household name because its invention in the early 1900s, began with two-man, 106-pound chain saws. Since then, the company’s product line has grown to include homeowner and professional-use chain saws, trimmers, pruners, blowers, sprayers, lawnmowers, concrete cutters and hand tools. The FS 130 R trimmer is a professional-use trimmer with an assortment of benefits and features for your operator.

STIHL FS 130 R Characteristics

The FS 130 R has a list of features that benefit not just the operator, but also the surroundings. One example is this item includes the STIHL Caring for Nature seal that means this trimmer produces less emissions than EPA or CARB standards. The”R” in the model number indicates a loop handle as opposed to a bike handle. Loop handles are somewhat more efficient in tight areas, such as between footprints. This trimmer is also equipped with STIHL’s anti-vibration system which lowers the fatigue and stress on the operator’s body.

FS 130 R Specifications

With no cutting tool, the STIHL FS 130 R measures 71 inches long, and without the deflector, it weighs 12.3 pounds. The trimmer offers 1.9 brake-horsepower and 2.2 cubic inch motor displacement. The motor idles at 2,800 rpm and has a maximum output shaft speed of 7,400 rpm. The fuel tank holds 18 oz of mixed fuel: midgrade, unleaded fuel and two-stroke, air-cooled engine oil at a ratio of 50 to 1.

Accessories and Safety

As a professional-use trimmer, the FS 130 R is designed to handle a bit more compared to typical residential gardening tasks. It is designed to cut through rough terrain. It requires nylon trimmer line for regular usage, but in the instance of rougher brush and weeds, this trimmer can also take steel grass-and-brush blades. Always wear long pants and sleeves, closetoed shoes, safety goggles, heavy-duty gloves and noise barriers when operating a trimmer.

STIHL Standard Trimmer Characteristics

All of STIHL gas-powered, specialist grass trimmers share a large number of attributes, such as a multifunction control handle which houses all controllers, easy-access for cleanup, replaceable parts, infield repairs, ergonomic layouts, easy-to-see cutting, lightweight but heavy-duty, high-tech polymer housings, and an adjustable use for stability and security.

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Appliances That Price the Most on the Electric Bill

Your household appliances do not run on happy thoughts. The majority of them require power and a great deal of it. Although factors such as location, appliance brand and total usage can affect overall household energy prices, a number of your crucial appliances will invariably cost more than others to keep running.

Central Air Conditioner

In the 5,000 Watts, your central air conditioner is likely the most expensive factor contributing to your power bill. According to General Electric, a typical central air conditioner unit may cost about $60 a month, based on where you live. If you reside in a hot climate where you run your machine year old, you could be paying around $700 annually in power prices just for your central AC alone. If you reside in a cooler climate and infrequently use your air conditioner, these prices certainly go down.

Electric Water Heater

Your electric water heater usually is the 2nd most expensive appliance in your home. Though it typically draws much lower wattage than a central air conditioner, your electric water heater always is busy doing its job.

Standard Refrigerator, and Freezer Unit

Your trusty fridge is just another household appliance that never requires a nap. Whether you are sleeping, at work or on vacation, the fridge keeps chugging away. This means it never ceases adding numbers to your power bill. If your refrigerator’s freezer unit is too little to get the job finished, you may decide to buy an independent electrical freezer. This will cost you as freezers also always run. Most freezer units use a higher wattage than refrigerators, so they typically cost a little more per month.

Clothes Dryer

Contrary to your electric water heater and fridge, your clothes dryer frequently gets to take nice long breaks. When in use, a dryer can function in 3,400 Watts. This may include more digits to your electrical bill.

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How Many Watts Does a Hot Water Heater Use?

According to the California Energy Commission, heating Water accounts for 25 percent of their average residential energy bill, and electric heaters generally cost more to use than gas ones. To compute your water heating bill, you want to know how many watts of electricity your water heater utilizes. That info is on the tag.

Locating the Label

The tag that shows the wattage of the heating element in an electric water heater is affixed to the side of the heater. It ought to be clearly visible, since it’s situated next to the panel you need to remove when changing the heating element, and that panel must remain accessible. The tag shows the operating voltage and the wattage of this element. If your heater runs on 240-volt power, it usually has two components, so you’ll see two values for wattage — one for each element.

One Element at one time

Water heaters running on 120-volt power have a lengthy recovery time, which is impractical for many households; 120-volt components consume 1125 watts, while residential 240-volt heaters use 4,500 watts. If a heater contains two components, people sometimes assume that they ought to include their wattage to obtain the total power consumption of the heater. This is not right, because both components don’t come on at the same moment. A heater with 2 components and a label that specifies a power use of 4,500 watts for every single element utilizes a maximum of 4,500 — not 9,000 — watts.

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Propane Home Heating and Building Codes

Although fire and building codes vary from location to place, every locality is going to have some codes that govern the installation of underfloor heating piping, appliances and storage tanks. Installation of propane heating systems will require licenses from local authorities and compliance many facets of the installation, all of the way from the appliance to the outdoor tank, will be subject to such demands.

Tank Location

Local building codes will determine where you can set your septic tank, and they will explain to you the tank can be to other constructions as well as to these things as railroad tracks, playgrounds and other substances. Generally, propane tanks must be at least 10 feet away from structures; the minimum might be greater depending on the size of their tank. Codes will specify the location of the point where a link to fulfill the tank is made by your propane provider, or the purpose of transfer. In addition, there might be clearance requirements to the relief valve of the tank.

Piping Prerequisites

The yard — the exterior piping which connects the tank to the furnace or heater within the home of the septic tank — must be buried, and the installation of the piping will need a permit. So that, in the event of future excavation, contractors can ascertain where it’s unsafe to dig the purpose of the permit is to make the location of the piping a matter of document. There will be a minimum thickness requirement for lines; the required thickness is usually between 12 and 18 inches.

Heater and Furnace Prerequisites

The installation of gas-burning furnaces, such as those that burn propane, are subject to a range of code demands which cover numerous qualities of the installation, such as clearances, combustion air distribution, duct work, venting of the furnace, electrical service to the furnace, and security devices. The International Building Code, where many local construction codes are based, includes all of these requirements in Chapter 24 of its Section IV; local guidelines may vary in the IBC, however, so you ought to always check with the local building authority to learn the applicable requirements where you reside. A permit is required by Setup of a propane furnace . Portable propane heaters are prohibited from use in houses by the California Health and Safety Code.

Code Compliance and Permits

Since the code requirements vary locally and regulating the installation of storage methods and propane appliances are complicated, the installation of the system should always be carried out. Typically, the builder will have the ability to acquire the licenses for you and assure that installation is compliant with all applicable fire and building codes. The Western Propane Education & Research Council instituted the California Safe Appliance Installation Incentive Program in 2014, to encourage compliant installation of propane appliances; a monetary incentive is provided by the application to homeowners whose propane appliances pass a safety review.

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Venting Requirements for Island Cooktops

A cooktop assembled to your kitchen island is a bold design statement which brings the room’s cooking area into the spotlight — but properly putting a cooktop in this prominent location isn’t straightforward. Local building codes can change in terms of specific requirements for cooktop venting; many requirements, however, fall in line with a couple easy vent layout guidelines.

Venting Options

Since an island cooktop sits at the middle of the kitchen, venting it with an overhead range hood is harder than installing a hood over a cooktop that sits against a wall. Free-hanging hoods are typically much cheaper than wall-mounted hoods — a wall-mounted hood can usually be set up for less than $1,000, even though a free-hanging hood may cost over $10,000. A more affordable choice is a downdraft vent that pulls the cooktop’s exhaust down into the island cabinet rather than venting through the ground.

Cooktop Requirements

The minimum quantity of ventilation airflow demanded by a gas cooktop fluctuates dependent on the BTU output of the cooktop. A general guideline is to split the total BTU output by 100 to ascertain the flow rate of the ventilation system in cubic feet per minute. As an example, a cooktop with an output of 70,000 BTU would call for a ventilation system rated at 700 cubic feet per minute. Electric cooktops require 200 cubic feet per minute of airflow for every foot of the cooktop’s width; for many electric cooktops, 400 cubic feet per minute does the occupation.

Code Requirements

At California, codes needs as laid out in the ASHRAE Standard 62.2 require that kitchens include a mechanical ventilation system which can move 100 cubic feet of air each minute if the system is operated intermittently. In the event of a continuously operated system, the system must achieve five air changes per hour. These requirements are minimum criteria, and when your installed cooktop demands more powerful ventilation, then the cooktop requirements supersede the code requirements.

Ducting Options

Local building codes may require that cooktop hoods deliver their exhaust beyond the home through ducts rather than simply recirculating the exhaust back into the kitchen. Codes may also specify the materials used to build the duct work. Typical specified materials include stainless steel, galvanized steel or copper. Always check with the local building authority to find out the requirements in your area before you put in a cooktop or ventilation system.

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