When can I Give the Seller the Real Estate Contract?

In order to get a real estate sale to happen, there first must be an offer and then an acceptance. Real estate sellers typically take buyer offers, consider them, then accept them, reject them or make counteroffers. After a real estate seller and buyer agree to conditions, the seller normally signs a real estate purchase agreement or sales contract. Real estate buyers are generally expected to sign purchase agreements initially, however, especially during offer and counteroffer periods.

Offer and Acceptance

It’s helpful to consider real estate sales transactions as a dance between sellers and buyers. In contract law, then there should always be an offer, an acceptance and a valuable consideration for a contract to be valid. Hopeful real estate buyers usually make the initial move in their dance with sellers and therefore are first to provide real estate purchase agreements or sales contracts. After looking over a purchaser’s already signed sales contract, the seller may also signal it.

Rejections and Counteroffers

Some real estate sales contracts have been arrived at only after important back-and-forth between sellers and buyers. After all, real estate sellers can accept, reject or counteroffer proposed real estate sales contracts from buyers. Of course, when a real estate seller rejects or counteroffers a purchaser’s proposed sales contract, no seller signature will probably be present. Additionally, previously rejected actual restate revenue contracts that are ultimately accepted by sellers must be re-accepted by buyers to be legally valid.

Dealing With Counteroffers

It’s normal for real estate buyers to get counteroffers, “highest and best” offer requests and also “drop dead” time constraints from sellers. Often, real estate buyers receiving counteroffers from sellers might be given just a limited time to accept or reject them. “Highest and best” offer requests from sellers means they are attempting to quickly wrap up negotiations and also desire the buyers’ closing and absolute best offers. For buyers, taking all allotted time before accepting, rejecting or modifying seller counteroffers can be a successful emotional bargaining instrument.

Wrapping Sales Up

Real estate purchase agreements or sales contracts aren’t valid until both sellers and buyers sign them. Commonly, in a smooth real estate transaction a buyer may signal a proposed sales contract and also see it quickly accepted and signed by the seller. When the seller signs a real estate sales contract, both parties to it are legally bound to its stipulations. Hopeful real estate sellers and buyers must consequently always carefully consider proposed revenue arrangements before signing them.

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Venting Requirements for Island Cooktops

A cooktop assembled to your kitchen island is a bold design statement which brings the room’s cooking area into the spotlight — but properly putting a cooktop in this prominent location isn’t straightforward. Local building codes can change in terms of specific requirements for cooktop venting; many requirements, however, fall in line with a couple easy vent layout guidelines.

Venting Options

Since an island cooktop sits at the middle of the kitchen, venting it with an overhead range hood is harder than installing a hood over a cooktop that sits against a wall. Free-hanging hoods are typically much cheaper than wall-mounted hoods — a wall-mounted hood can usually be set up for less than $1,000, even though a free-hanging hood may cost over $10,000. A more affordable choice is a downdraft vent that pulls the cooktop’s exhaust down into the island cabinet rather than venting through the ground.

Cooktop Requirements

The minimum quantity of ventilation airflow demanded by a gas cooktop fluctuates dependent on the BTU output of the cooktop. A general guideline is to split the total BTU output by 100 to ascertain the flow rate of the ventilation system in cubic feet per minute. As an example, a cooktop with an output of 70,000 BTU would call for a ventilation system rated at 700 cubic feet per minute. Electric cooktops require 200 cubic feet per minute of airflow for every foot of the cooktop’s width; for many electric cooktops, 400 cubic feet per minute does the occupation.

Code Requirements

At California, codes needs as laid out in the ASHRAE Standard 62.2 require that kitchens include a mechanical ventilation system which can move 100 cubic feet of air each minute if the system is operated intermittently. In the event of a continuously operated system, the system must achieve five air changes per hour. These requirements are minimum criteria, and when your installed cooktop demands more powerful ventilation, then the cooktop requirements supersede the code requirements.

Ducting Options

Local building codes may require that cooktop hoods deliver their exhaust beyond the home through ducts rather than simply recirculating the exhaust back into the kitchen. Codes may also specify the materials used to build the duct work. Typical specified materials include stainless steel, galvanized steel or copper. Always check with the local building authority to find out the requirements in your area before you put in a cooktop or ventilation system.

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Cedar Tree with Brown Pods

When your Eastern red cedar tree (Juniperus virginiana), an evergreen conifer that typically contains bluish, fleshy, berry-like cones, suddenly develops structures that resemble hard brown apples, you wonder what is happening. The growths, sometimes referred to as cedar apples or incisions, come from the fungus infection known as cedar-apple rust. The fungus can happen anywhere cedar and apples (Malus spp.) grow near each other. It requires both kinds of plants to complete the rust’s life cycle. At times the cedar’s health is not affected, but the disease can damage or kill both trees.

Beginning Period in Cedar

Although Eastern red cedar, which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 9, is the most vulnerable to the rust, ornamental junipers can also be hosts. The rust’s life cycle begins in summer when a spore blows from an infected apple to a cedar leaf. The fungus grows slowly at first, developing a small, greenish-brown swelling from the next summer. That fall, the swelling enlarges to the cedar apple, which can be a gall, or abnormal plant growth prompted by substances from another organism. It can be kidney-shaped or rounded, and can be 1/4 to above 2 inches broad. The surface has small depressions like golf ball dimples.

Fruiting Period in Cedar

Another phase is showy, with activity beginning in spring. Warmer temperatures and spring rains prompt growth of orange, gelatinous-looking horns that protrude from every dimple on the gall. Rather ornamental contrary to the green cedar foliage, the horns produce the reproductive spores that fly around the end to an apple tree. After spore release, the horns die as well as the cedar apple dries up, frequently falling to the ground.

Apple Tree Infection

Not just edible apples (Malus domestica), which are hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8, are affected, but crabapples (Malus spp.) Can also host cedar-apple rust. Crabapples grow in USDA zones 4 through 8a. Spores in the cedar tree gall land on an apple fruit or leaf and begin to feed on the tissues, developing yellowish circular spots. The fungi then form black fruiting bodies at the center of these areas, and insects cross-fertilize the dark spots. Then the last life stage grows in the dark spots, producing small, white, tubular constructions. These release the spores that cycle back to the cedars, typically at June through August. The apple tree loses leaves, fewer apples form and apples can be small or misshapen.

Reduce the Effects

If there are not too many cedars growing within a period of an apple tree, remove all of the cedar galls before they form the star-like reproductive phase. Since red cedar is the most susceptible host, plant rust-resistant species of juniper rather than red cedar. Cultivars of apple and crabapple can be found that are immune to cedar-apple rust. If you can, reduce the number of junipers that grow near apple trees, and maintain junipers as far away from apples as you can. For the disease not to be able to transmit back and forth, nevertheless, they would have to be just two miles apart.

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How to Identify an Antique Dresser by Its Signature

Early wood furniture crafters, much like other artisans, frequently left their signature, also known as a maker’s mark, on completed furniture pieces. These signatures help buyers and buyers identify and authenticate the piece of furniture. The signature on your antique dresser, along with other clues, can potentially help you learn more about its own history and craftsmanship.

Search Your Dresser

Analyze your antique door to look for a mark, stamp or signature. Typically, early craftsmen put a mark on the bottom, the back or inside a drawer. The location and style of the mark can fluctuate depending on whether the antique furniture piece has been created and built by an independent craftsman or someone who worked for a furniture business. You might be searching for a handmade material signature, a carved or engraved mark or even a custom manufacturing stamp.

Gather Documentation

Thorough detective work regarding the mark, signature or stamp on your dresser will call for a physical examination of the mark along with research and maybe the opinion of an appraiser or antique trader. Collect information regarding the signature that would be helpful to a specialist. Take clear photographs of your dresser as well as the signature — electronic if possible. Start looking for a date if you think the piece might have been crafted, and make notes about the mark, especially if it’s not apparent or completely null. As an example, can it be stamped in ink, a paper label, a metallic plate or a carving?

Consult Ethical Resources

Consult sites such as Antique Marks or even Kovels to look for the maker identified on any marks or signatures you found on your antique dresser. Books such as “A Dictionary of Marks: Metalwork, Furniture, Ceramics: The Investigation Handbook for Antique Collectors” by Margaret Macdonald-Taylor can help you learn more about the signature in your piece. Websites such as Collector’s Weekly and Your Antique Furniture Guide also offer helpful periodic updates.

Consider a specialist

Find an appraiser if you wish to have your dresser officially appraised within an antique. The appraiser can examine the signature and provide you a written present value to the dresser, which can be great for insurance purposes. If you choose to consult an appraiser, then you can usually find a specialist by calling or visiting nearby antique stores for referrals. The appraiser will examine the dresser and its own signature; notice its construction, layout, design, material and patina; see if any components have been replaced or solved because manufacture; and provide an estimate as to its age.

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The Way to Get Your Own Prairie On

I must admit the first time I saw a prairie wasn’t before the spring of 2007, when my wife and I were looking for a wedding reception venue. We finished up at Spring Creek Prairie, a never-plowed 800-acre remnant 20 minutes south of our city. I am unsure how I heard of it but I know that ever since that time, the prairie has had a special spot in the lives of my wife and I, especially as we think about buying some acreage and starting prairie-inspired companies.

Here in town you will find plans to make a 7-mile prairie road from a bison park near our home down to Spring Creek. Just 1 percent of the tall-grass prairie remains, I wonder just how my garden might be an extended part of this trail — and what my small suburban lot means in a world of wildlife and individuals where gardens have become refuges for us all.

Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

It’s difficult to imagine just how big the prairie used to be in the North American Great Plains and Midwest — covering nearly 50 percent of the U.S. — and just how quickly it disappeared over the span of a hundred decades or so. When I visit refuges in Kansas, Oklahoma and Iowa, I feel something I never feel elsewhere — that distance to the horizon that comforts me as the grass sways like waves, the birds leaping through folds of bluestem, insects rebounding from crazy bloom to crazy bloom. I need some of that in my own landscape. I need prairie back, and maybe if I am lucky I will observe the birds and insects come home, too.

Feldman Architecture, Inc..

In case you have a few acres that are full of weeds, the easiest way to prep for a prairie is to till the soil to expose the roots to air or broadcast the area with something like Roundup. I know that it’s not ideal to utilize the latter, but I wonder whether the ends justifies the means — you need a fresh slate to disperse a prairie seed mix, and that mix must be spread onto bare soil. A lot of those seeds also need a period of cold, wet winter weather to germinate in late spring, which is why a late-fall planting (after a couple pops) is perfect.

Here is a detailed prairie establishment guide by Prairie Nursery — by prairie prep to seeding, establishment and upkeep.

Jocelyn H. Chilvers

OK, you do not have a couple acres; maybe you have a bigger suburban lot. You are able to turn that into prairie too, with seed combinations, which would be the most economical method to get a diverse planting — although it is going to take a few years to establish a prairie, and you are going to have to spot check for weeds before the natives crowd them out. After that the plants will probably be quite low maintenance, requiring just an early-spring mowing (or a burning if you can do it safely).

Frequently spaces under trees are bare, and grass can not grow, but you will find shade-loving wildflowers and grasses on the market — two of my favorite places to find those plants would be the searchable database at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center and the internet shop at Prairie Moon Nursery.

Gardens from Gabriel, Inc..

And now some of you’re thinking, “Hey, I don’t have some acreage or even a suburban lot, and all I need is a low-maintenance some thing on a problem area that gets lots of sunlight and dries out frequently.”

Maybe you are able to mass some sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) or prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis). Those are two of my favourite prairie shortgrass plants. If you prefer blooms that are taller, think about some racks of bluestem (Andropogon spp) orIndian grass (Sorghastrum nutans) — you might even possess the taller grasses from the back and the shorter ones up alongside mimic a more traditional garden layout. Toss in some coneflowers, blue lavender or liatris (Liatris aspera) for some pops of flowering color from early summer to midautumn, and you’ve started cooking up a prairie.

If you have a shadier place, research native sedges — they look like grasses but are not as tall.

D-CRAIN Design and Construction

You can even get really minimalist if you want. Inside this picture various plants are dispersed almost like they’d be in the arid high plains crazy — a specimen here, a drift there. Designing a prairie garden can spur some trendy imagination, and I strongly think any aesthetic can be achieved using just prairie grasses and wildflowers.

Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Here’s a midfall scene from my own garden. Front is a liatris gone to seed, behind it’s a ‘Purple Dome’ New England aster cultivar, and further back is a stand of tall Indian grass. This layout is really a bridge between the formal and informal look I believe prairie plants lend themselves to quite well.

Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Here is another view from a very different part of my backyard, at USDA zone 5 (find your zone). Above is a stand of gray-headed coneflower, purple coneflower, long-headed coneflower and yarrow. Sprinkled in you will find some zizia, little bluestem, liatris, milkweed and a plethora of other prairie plants at a 40-square-foot mattress of running colour from May to October.

Christopher Yates Landscape Architecture

If you merely need a lawn replacement, then a seeding of buffalo grass or even blue grama works good for a 6- to 8-inch insure you can also mow once in a while if you prefer (but consider allowing it to grow to form a natural, wavy habit). Prairies in our landscapes do not have to be tall or complex or cluttered.

Great grasses for a new lawn

Kathleen Shaeffer Design, Exterior Spaces

If you live in a cooler climate or at higher elevation, you are able to stretch the rules a bit and allow red fescue grow and make undulating waves 4 to 6 inches tall. A couple well-placed trees from the grass make a playground- or prairie-like feel and are extremely low maintenance.

Mark English Architects, AIA

Why not give some baskets the prairie look? You might seed the containers, but buying some nursery plants may be most suitable for you, so you get a quicker bang for your dollar.

Another planting proposal: Have pleasure and layout one container with some little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) underplanted with purple prairie clover or stunt blazing star (Liatris cylindracea). You may need to put the container into the garage or shed for winter so that the roots do not freeze or shut out, especially if you live in zone 5 or even a cooler climate.

There was all kinds of prairies from the U.S.: inland, lowland, sand and even some on the Gulf Coast from Texas to Florida.

There are prairie plants for virtually any type of environment, from wet to dry. You can go all out having a diverse seed mix, make traditional beds or get modern with just blossoms. Match the layout to your home and maybe pick up Catherine Zimmerman’s publication on meadow gardening, Urban and Suburban Meadows.

Prairie plants are low maintenance when correctly sited, and once established feed all kinds of beneficial pollinating insects, enhance soil fertility and revive a little bit of what was formerly here for lots of species that still rely on native prairie plant communities.

Every small garden landscape, when connected, becomes a prairie corridor for miracle and for life you maybe didn’t know was there till you welcomed it back home.

More: 3 Ways Native Plants Create Gardening So Much Better

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Great Design Plant: Butterflies and Autumn Sage Brings Color

Many fans of fall blossom (Salvia greggii)will rave about its beautiful flowers. Others are going to praise the fact that deer and rabbits leave it alone. Desert gardeners love it is going to thrive underneath their preferred tree, while Southern gardeners like to plant it in full sun. And folks aren’t the only ones who find the flowers irresistible — thus do butterflies and hummingbirds.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Botanical name: Salvia greggii
Common title: Autumn sage
Resource: Native to Texas, New Mexico and Mexico
Where it can grow: Hardy to 0 degrees Fahrenheit (USDA zone 7; find your zone)
Water requirement: Low to moderate
Light requirement: Filtered color in the low desert; total sun in other climates
Mature size: 2 feet tall and broad
Benefits and tolerances: Drought tolerant once established, but looks best with deep watering per week; attracts butterflies and hummingbirds
Seasonal interest: Flowers in autumn and spring at the low desert; blooms in summer in warmer climates
When to plant: Fall or spring

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Distinguishing traits. Autumn blossom is a little- to medium-size shrub that thrives in lightly shaded regions. Tubular flowers appear in autumn and last until spring in low-desert gardens. In cooler climates the flowering begins in spring and continues into summer.

The bright green foliage is attractive and resistant to both deer and rabbits.

Shown: Vibrant pink fall sage implanted around a Foothills Palo Verde tree, which creates protection from the hot Arizona desert sun.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

The colorful, bright blossoms are irresistible to hummingbirds in addition to butterflies, which is why this plant is a must-have for any butterfly or hummingbird garden.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Autumn sage (Salvia greggii)often hybridizes using Salvia microphylla. The hybrids are sometimes referred to as Salvia x jamensis,with flower color variants including peach, light pink, purple, white and bicolor. The hybrids have the exact same growth habits and prerequisites as fall sage.

Shown: ‘Playa Rosa’

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

The best way to utilize it. This tiny perennial shrub looks great paired with yellow-flowering perennials such as angelita daisy, coreopsis, damianita and rudbeckia.

Use fall sage as an understory plant by incorporating it about a tree which produces light shade. It can grow in full color, but flowering will be reduced. Avoid placing it in regions that get full day sunlight — northern or eastern exposures are greatest.

Shown: Autumn sage implanted with yellow pansies at the University of South Carolina

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Autumn sage may be used to line a pathway as a gorgeous backdrop to a perennial bed.

Shown: Autumn sage implanted alongside a pathway at The Living Desert in Palm Desert, California.

Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting

Planting notes. Plant it in well-drained soil. Prune it back to 1 foot after the last freeze date and apply a slow-release mulch. The compost will assist the autumn sage manage the warm temperatures of summer more easily.

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Grow Herbs for Fresh Flavor and Great Looks from the Garden

Herbs have been used throughout recorded history to get a massive range of functions: culinary, aroma, medicinal and much more. But if you have not grown them they can appear intimidating — should they do this much, developing them should be complicated.

However, most herbs are simple to grow. They’re minimally fussy and suffer from few pests and diseases, making them suitable for beginning gardeners. They’re also fantastic landscape plants. They are sometimes used as part of a regular garden bed, set off as a garden feature by themselves, integrated into container houses, grown over walls or in window boxes, or used as a ground cover.

Get plants from the nursery for any vacant spots on your baskets or borders — or take a new look in your yard for a dedicated place to get a full size herb garden. Here’s how to get started.

Sterling-Huddleson Architecture

Decide on your garden layout. Would you like a separate herb garden? Your options include an official layout, including a knot garden, or even a more casual backyard bed. If the herbs be in a series of containers, maybe on a terrace outside the kitchen, where they will be readily available? Would you wish to utilize some as a ground cover, between patio pavers or to create a path?

Decide on your own plants. Most popular herbs have culinary uses, but as soon as you’ve gotten started on herb gardens, then you will probably want to look into more unusual offerings, even if they are not edible.

Spread the love. One great thing about herbs is that they’re usually easy to spread by seeds or cuttings. Propagation is a superb way to practice your backyard abilities.

Beertje Vonk Artist

Prepare your distance. Most herbs want full sun, but other than that, you do not need to fret too much. Many of the more popular herbs, such as thyme and lavender, will grow in poor conditions. Some, such as mint, will grow almost everywhere. In fact, mint could be so invasive, so it’s ideal to set it in a bud raised off the ground.

Even though your chosen plants are undemanding, doing some simple soil preparation such as tilling the soil and incorporating any amendments that your chosen plants may need will still be helpful.

Aloe Designs

Edb layouts

If you are growing herbs in containers, choose ones that will be big enough to maintain the mature plant. Employing fitting containers will help your garden look clean and organized.

Amy Renea

They’re also easy to harvest and preserve. Part of the enjoyment of culinary herbs is working with them in the kitchen, whether you use them whether you dry or freeze them.

Next: How to develop some favorites of cooks and gardeners:
How to increase basilHow to grow thymeHow to grow sageHow to grow dillHow to grow marjoramHow to grow rosemaryHow to grow mintHow to grow tarragon

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The Weepers and the Creepers: 10 Intriguing Trees For The Garden

Trees are an acquired taste, much like good wine. I often joke with my customers that anyone can grow and love a tree which grows up, but it requires a unique person to raise and love one that crawls along the ground, twists or grows up before diving back into the ground. If these trees could speak, I feel certain they would draw us to your dialogue, share wisdom and share a few stories that are unforgettable. Sound intriguing?

Most gardeners are familiar with the old standbys, like weeping willow, weeping cherry and Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick. Maybe youpersonally, however, are searching for something a little different, something to express your identity. Allow me to introduce you to 10 of my favorites and discuss how to use these to make them really yours.

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Pendulous Norway Spruce
(Picea abies ‘Pendula’)

This spruce is a real workhorse in the backyard. Nursery growers will generally stake this tree to a height of 6 to 8 feet. The tree is then free to state its identity as it turns and slowly heads back to the ground, developing unique twists, turns and cascades. No two are alike, so it’s important to choose the tree considering how its shape will enhance the overall look of your backyard.

I have four of these in my own garden. Three are displayed on a high ridge and named “The Elders” since they remind me of austere old men.

USDA zones: 2 to 2 (find your zone)
Water and soil conditions: Average water; well-draining soil
moderate requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: Generally 8 to 10 feet tall, depending on how the plant is staked
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar
(Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca Pendula’)

This North African cedar is just another workhorse in the backyard. The species comes in many diverse forms, all fantastic, but many specialty nurseries will generally carry one of two yelling forms: either trained in a serpentine pattern and staked, or inside a hooked pattern in which the tree springs and heads straight toward the ground. Its powdery blue foliage is a perfect complement to the burgundy foliage of a Crimson Queen Japanese walnut or a purple smoke bush. It’s a slow grower but can eventually become very big, so some pruning and training will be necessary.

I made a living fence in my backyard using five of these weepers trained along a horizontal rod. It’s an excellent background for the perennials. A lone specimen is also great for anchoring of mattress of burgundy heucheras, zones 4 to 9, or low-growing Purple Pixie loropetalums, zones 7 to 10. Add a patch of Japanese iris, zones 4 to 9, since the contrast between the weeping tree along with the vertical iris makes a real statement.

USDA zones: 6 to 9
Water and soil conditions: Average water; well-draining soil
moderate requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: 10 feet tall and 15 feet wide in 20 years unless pruned; larger with age
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Cascade Falls Bald Cypress
(Taxodium distichum ‘Cascade Falls’)

Bald cypress is a wonderful conifer, partly because it is one of the few conifers that is deciduous. This weeping variety has delicate fern-like foliage which emerges chartreuse in the spring and turns a rich orange in autumn. It also develops amazing flashes in summer time and has beautiful exfoliating bark. A bonus is that this shrub will grow in very wet soil as well as ordinary soil. If your garden has a challenging wet place, this tree may be the one for you.

If you experience an arbor in your backyard, try one of these trained up rather than a pedestrian blossom to cover the construction. Your clematis-loving friends will be envious.

USDA zones:
4 to 10
Water and soil conditions: Wet to ordinary soil
moderate requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: Generally 8 ft tall, depending on how the plant is staked
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Twisty Baby Black Locust
(Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Lace Lady’)

This shrub grows like a more vertical kind of Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick, reaching an average height of 15 feet. It’s an excellent terrace tree that is certain to start a dialogue. This locust could be pruned to encourage contorted growth and also to control size and shape. The foliage is very attractive, with glowing green panicles of little round foliage hanging in the branches. The foliage turns yellow in autumn.

I grow mine in a huge pot to give it more presence in my backyard.

USDA zones: 4 to 9
Water and soil requirements: Average, well-draining soil
Light requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: 15 tall and wide if unpruned
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Ryusen Japanese Maple
(Acer palmatum ‘Ryusen’)

That is one truly outstanding walnut, unlike any other. You’ll see it at specialty nurseries, usually staked to a height of 5 to 10 feet. It heavily weeps when it reaches its preferred height. The foliage is green and turns a gorgeous yellow-orange in autumn. This walnut is magnificent planted beside a pond, in which it reaches down to, and can be reflected in the water. It also looks great grown in a tall ceramic pot, giving an Asian look to a backyard.

USDA zones: 5 to 9
Water requirement: Average
moderate requirement: Partial sun
Mature size: As much as 10 feet tall, depending on how the plant is staked
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Weeping Canadian Hemlock
(Tsuga canadensis ‘Pendula’)

This group of dispersing conifers has elevated arthritis into an art form. Some specimens creep along the ground, meandering and fanning outward. Others are staked vertical, then cascade gently back to the earth. All are worth growing. Cultivars to Search for include Sargeant’s Weeping, Cole’s Prostrate and Verkode’s Recurva. As with the Norway spruce, it is ideal to handpick this shrub for your specific space. Use extra caution when transporting these as some cultivars are rather brittle.

A caution regarding hemlocks: if you live in an area of the country that’s been invaded by the dreaded bug called woolly adelgid, then you may choose to skip over this group of conifers. Most of these hemlocks remain relatively small and may be sprayed if needed.

USDA sets: 4 to 8
Water requirement: Average
moderate requirement: Full sun to partial shade
Mature size: Generally from 2 to 8 feet tall, depending upon the cultivar and how the plant is staked
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Blue Snake Deodar Cedar
(Cedrus deodara ‘Blue Snake’)

This conifer is a dwarf among the deodars, reaching a 10-year height of 8 feet. It may be found in two forms: either staked before the central leader strengthens, which makes it efficiently an upright but yelling tree, or even more thickly developed unstaked and left to meander across the ground in authentic snake-like fashion. Its bluish foliage gives it additional impact as it wanders down pathways and between perennials. I grow mine in a tall ceramic pot, enabling it to fall overboard.

USDA zones: 7 to 9
Water and soil requirements: Average, well-draining soil
Light requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: Up to 2 ft in height within 10 years should staked; larger with age. If unstaked, 1 foot tall, trailing to 15 ft)
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Ruby Falls Redbud
(Cercis canadensis ‘Ruby Falls’)

This newly introduced redbud unites the gorgeous foliage of this Forest Pansy redbud with a beautiful weeping form. The shrub blooms prolifically in early spring, with clusters of small pink flowers tightly hugging the bare branches. Beautiful big heart-shaped foliage then stalks, dark purple at first and finally turning black toward to end of this summer.

Ruby Falls creates a excellent little patio tree, usually reaching a height of 8 ft prior to cascading back toward the ground. It would look great behind a mass planting of Blue Star junipers, zones 4 to 8, perhaps with an accent of ‘Kim’s Knee High’ coneflower, zones 4 to 9.

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Another similar-size redbud cultivar to search out is ‘Whitewater’. This weeping redbud, which is apparently a weeping type of ‘Floating Clouds’, boasts heavily variegated green and white foliage, ideal for underplanting with Patriot Hosta, zones 3 to 9, and Visions-In-White Astilbe, zones 3 to 8, or even maybe endorsed by Casa Blanca lilies, zones 5 to 8, in a white garden.

USDA zones: 6 to 9
Water and soil requirements: Moist, well-draining soil
Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade
Mature dimensions: 8 to 10 feet tall, depending on how the plant was staked
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Alaskan Cedar
(Chamaecyparis nootkatensis)

This exceptional conifer species can look quite majestic or even a bit ghoulish, particularly if backlit from the setting sun. Heavily weeping, dark green fern-like foliage earns this shrub a spot in virtually every garden. There are some wonderful cultivars, such as ‘Pendula’ and ‘Green Arrow’, but my favourite is ‘Van den Akker’. This cultivar reaches an average height of 20 to 30 ft, yet a width of only 2 feet following the reduced juvenile branches are removed. It’s spectacular when planted in groups of 3, as every tree has a somewhat different crying habit. Planted this way they almost seem as a group of people huddled in conversation.

USDA zones: 4 to 8
Water and soil requirements: Moist to average soil
Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade
Mature dimensions: 30 feet tall and 2 feet wide
When to plant: Fall or spring

Jay Sifford Garden Design

Raywood’s Weeping Arizona Cypress
(Cupressus glabra ‘Raywood’s Weeping’)

This gorgeous bluish-gray weeping type of ‘Blue Ice’ is a celebrity in the backyard. Beautiful branchlets hang down from the trunk. A well-behaved narrow tree which should be staked to its preferred shape, Raywood’s Weeping will reach an average height of 12 to 15 ft in a decade in the backyard. Two are great positioned on each side of a garden entryway, since they’ll naturally form a household arch. I cannot say enough good things about this tree that is unique.

USDA zones: 5 to 9
Water and soil requirements: Average, well-draining soil
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: 15 feet tall
When to plant: Fall or spring

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Bathed in Color to Get White Right from the Toilet

There are plenty of gorgeous, vibrant bathrooms on , but let us concentrate on white bathrooms this week. White is a popular option for bathrooms because we associate the colour with purity and cleanliness. But most find all-white spaces stark, cold and boring. The secret to working with whitened would be to pay attention to the materials used — specifically to their texture and sheen. You also have chances to play up interesting accessories in a white area, because the hue is a terrific sterile canvas. I suggest putting some wood components or hot neutral tones to counteract coolness, also.

Continue on for more tips to creating a light and inviting white toilet, and examples of whitened done correctly.

Nest Architectural Design, Inc..

A minimalist white toilet can easily veer toward institutional and cold. Have a hint from this magnificent bathroom by adding lots of warm wood via the lavatory cabinet or the flooring. It will ground the space and give it a homey and inviting feel.

If you have concerns about installing hardwood flooring in a wet area, have a look at some of the wood-like flooring tiles now available.

Try this white: Snowbound SW7004, Sherwin-Williams

TATUM BROWN CUSTOM HOMES

The counter tops and tile in this lovely modern bathroom have nice patterns that include visual interest in a space with a very limited color palette. Because warm whites were utilized, the toilet doesn’t feel cold or austere, despite all the white.

Try this white: Warm Welcome OW-4-3, Mythic Paint

HoneeDo This’n That, Inc/Southwest Tile & Marble

If you opt for an all-white bathroom, pay attention to the details, since they can make the difference between dull and sublime.

This hip bath is attractive, thanks in part to interesting touches such as the floating mirror, floating marble counters and cool accessories and hardware.

Try this white: Distant Gray 2124-70, Benjamin Moore

Trey Hoff Architecture

If you are blessed with large bath windows and a killer view, such as in this magnificent bath, keep things clean and simple so the view can be the star of the show.

Try this white: Angel Touch 7004-24, Valspar

Studio Frank

Bright, bold colour is an easy way to add drama. However, you might also add oomph through abundant textures and materials. I like the interplay of the handsome wood-clad wall and the tasteful wall and flooring tiles in this toilet. The mix is very chic.

Try this white: White Fur W-F-610, Behr

Min | Day Architects

This bathroom’s pure white walls and interesting ceiling layout have an elegant artwork gallery vibe. In case you have unusual architectural components that you would like to take centre stage, a palette of white and light neutrals will help play up them for optimum impact.

Try this white: Designer White 33-1, Pratt & Lambert

Lisa Petrole Photography

If you like white bathrooms but need something more minimalist and more modern, inject classic elements to the area. This delightful bathroom might have a simple color palette, however its claw-foot tub, pedestal sinks, oversize styled mirror and retro fixtures ooze charm.

Try this whitened: Silver City DE6337, Dunn-Edwards Paints

Tell us Is whitened all right, or do you want more color in a tub?

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Basement of the Week: Amenities Aplenty in Minnesota

Seeking some extra space where he could work and unwind after a long day, this company executive and his family had a lengthy list of desires for their unfinished cellar. The full arrangement for your space comprised a billiards area, a walk-up wet bar, a theater and family room, a wine cellar, a workplace, a guest room, an exercise room, a fireplace plus a homework space. To put it differently, your basic adolescent and adult dream space.

After several preliminary layouts, Jenny Jorgensen of Finished Basement Company produced a relaxing layout that incredibly incorporated everything on the wish list, done in a clean and comfortable transitional style.

Basement at a Glance
Who lives here:
A couple and their teenage children
Location: Lakeville, Minnesota
Size: Around 1,400 square feet, such as guest room

Finished Basement Company

Though they possess a traditional-style home, the homeowners lean toward modern. Thus Jorgensen added accents such as dark moldings to the coffered ceiling to accentuate its own ardently contemporary grid pattern.

Finished Basement Company

Clean lines continue throughout the slick wet bar, with darkish Shaker cabinetry plus a gridded backsplash tile pattern. Jorgensen smartly put the pub between the family room and game room for convenience.

Finished Basement Company

The living room does double duty as a movie-watching area, even though a bar offers extra seating and a fantastic place for the kids to do their homework.

Jorgensen framed the TV to keep the display out of a floating black square on the white wall. The frame mirrors the moldings used in the ceiling coffers.

Finished Basement Company

The trimmed coffers also link the media space to the bigger billiards area.

Finished Basement Company

An elongated arch swoops on the entryway to the workplace and a trendy firebox, which is surrounded by an innovative concrete microtopping that adds texture and warm color.

Finished Basement Company

The curves continue in this hallway for a counterpoint to the added blank lines. Maple molding and trimwork also create connections between the spaces.

While engineered timber covers the majority of the cellar floor, carpet is utilized in the theater room and office, since the floors have a tendency to get chilly in the Minnesota climate.

Finished Basement Company

More subtle arches appear above the vanity and along the surface of the mirror in the full bathroom, creating a nice contrast to the straight lines of this countertop, cantilevered vanity and tiles.

Porcelain tile and Cambria counters include interesting patterns to the feel palette.

Finished Basement Company

A full bath with a steam shower solutions that the most important space in addition to the guest room.

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